Fashion Needs More Than a Green Makeover
When you think of sustainable fashion, what comes to mind? Maybe it’s those beautifully repurposed outfits on Instagram or brands proudly claiming their clothes are “eco-friendly.”
But let’s pause for a second—are these practices truly sustainable, or are we just giving landfill-bound items a brief detour? As highlighted by research from The Harvard Business Review, the sad truth is that despite decades of experimentation and so-called “innovation,” the fashion industry’s environmental impact has not diminished. Over the past 25 years, global production of garments and shoes has more than doubled, with a staggering three-quarters of these items ending up burned or buried in landfills. This points to the stark reality that voluntary efforts alone may not be enough to tackle the systemic challenges of climate change and sustainability.
Coming from Ghana, a country with a vibrant history of creativity and resourcefulness, I can confidently say that sustainability in fashion isn’t a foreign concept. Kantamanto Market, for example, is often hailed as a global model for circularity. It’s where thrifted clothing from the Global North gets a second, even third, life. Yet, the reality today is bittersweet.
The Decline of Quality: A Sustainability Dilemma
In the past, thrift bales arriving in Ghana had more quality pieces—durable fabrics that could be mended, redesigned, or upcycled into something meaningful. Now? Fast fashion’s reign has turned much of what we receive into low-quality “rubbish.” No matter how clever our local artisans are, repurposing poorly made materials can only do so much. Transforming rubbish into a wearable outfit doesn’t change its fundamental nature—it’s still rubbish, destined for the landfill sooner or later.
“This is where the conversation needs to shift. True sustainability isn’t just about giving items a superficial makeover; it’s about designing with longevity, repairability, and recyclability in mind from the start.”
And here in Ghana, where material development and production infrastructure are virtually non-existent, this shift feels almost impossible without systemic support. With its cheap, mass-produced garments, the influx of fast fashion has significantly undermined local textile production, making it difficult for homegrown industries to compete and thrive.
Breaking Down the Challenges
“The odds are stacked against sustainable fashion brands in Ghana. Without access to local facilities for material development or the financial tools to drive innovation, even well-meaning brands depend on external flows of imported fabrics, secondhand clothing, and donor funding.”
Worse, fast fashion’s dominance means the quality of materials available for reuse continues to decline.
Despite these challenges, our culture remains rooted in respect for waste and its transformation. Ghanaian artisans are masters of resourcefulness, but they can only work with what they’re given. And if what we’re given is low-quality fast fashion waste, then the entire system fails to live up to the promise of sustainability. While this ingenuity is commendable, we cannot rely on resourcefulness alone as the solution to the fast fashion problem. The burden of addressing this crisis should not rest solely on local communities—it requires systemic changes from the industry itself, including responsible production and equitable partnerships. It’ll require the Global Nouth actors responsible for the excessive clothes production to catch up to their words and leave the comfort of false sustainable promises for the trenches of action.
What Needs to Change
So, how do we move forward?
Invest in Infrastructure
We need systems that support designing for longevity, repairability, and recyclability. This includes credit facilities, grants, and capital investments to make it easier for sustainable fashion brands to “do good.” Waste dumpers and local businesses alike must prioritise infrastructure that supports these goals.
Prioritise Quality and Life-Cycle Thinking
In regions where these systems already exist, the focus must shift toward producing high-quality materials designed to last. Fast fashion’s short lifecycle doesn’t just harm the environment; it also undermines the potential of circular practices.
Strengthen Circularity Standards
Circularity isn’t just about recycling; it’s about creating a system where waste is designed out entirely. It’s about radically reducing the number of clothes produced by most brands. For Ghana, this means advocating for upcycling and recycling practices rooted in eliminating pollution, regenerating resources, and circulating products and materials for as long as possible.
Beyond Aesthetics
Sustainable fashion must be about more than aesthetics.
“Yes, repurposing old clothes into trendy new pieces is creative and inspiring, but if these items can’t stand the test of time, we’re just postponing the inevitable. The real work lies in creating systems and standards that prioritise durability, environmental safety, and closed-loop designs.”
Ghana and Accra’s Kantamanto Market are proof of what’s possible when resourcefulness meets cultural ingenuity. Imagine how much more impactful this model could be if we had the right tools, materials, and support. It’s time to move beyond the superficial sustainability goals and build a fashion ecosystem that is restorative of Ghana’s textile industry while empowering the new creatives reimagining secondhand.
OVER TO YOU -
OVER TO YOU -
-Support or partner with the GOTO INITIATIVE - an Accra-based space bridging Africa’s problems and sustainable solutions that work. Connecting people and solution drivers to cool eco-solutions.
-Support other solution finders based in Accra like the OR Foundation and The Revival.
-Wherever you are, you can join a movement fighting for a fairer fashion industry via Remake Our World.
